It’s goodbye to Namche this morning. Today will see our group ascend to almost 4000m before we descend to our destination of Phortse.

The morning is clear and the views are great.

Every day, I think the scenery can’t get any better… and then it does. The sun is out today and it gets warm quickly as the trail inclines and we all shuffle towards our next destination.

We pass by many stupas, some severely cracked and damaged from the 2015 earthquake. While there are lots of rebuilding efforts, much of the area still lies in ruin and is a humble reminder of the devastation that hit the region not-so-long ago.

We see a variety of animals including yaks, naks (female yaks), mountain goats, vultures and eagles.

We also see more and more Sherpa. They are amazingly hardworking people.

Sherpa ladies

The final ascent to Phortse is a real test with a steep incline after a long day of walking. By the time we finally arrive at the top of the hill, the clouds are rolling in and the village seems like a ghost town. It looks like the moors of Scotland and is quite eerie as there are no people to be seen.

Seemingly empty plots of land are divided by rock walls. Prem tells us they’re not empty plots at all and upon closer inspection, I can see sprouts shooting up. It turns out they’re actually growing potatoes and buckwheat. I’m amazed anything can grow here.

At our teahouse, we learn about Karma Rita Sherpa who is from this village. He has summited Everest multiple times (21 times as of 28/05/17!) and completed the Everest Marathon (running down from Basecamp to Namche Bazaar) in 4:32:51. What a machine!

Start: Namche Bazaar (3440m amsl)
Finish: Phortse (3810m amsl)

Everest Basecamp – day by day


10 thoughts on “EVEREST BASECAMP: Day 5 – Phortse

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